Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and visitors equally praising its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a prestigious list of world cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it enters a global network of more than four hundred cities across over 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "stands as proof of its profound gastronomic legacy and vibrant culinary scene," as stated by a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this venerable city arrives as hardly a shock to its residents or avid food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, chaotic, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is finally in the limelight for what has perennially shaped its essence: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a constant discussion from waking up until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, refined, and elevated to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of food experimentation, merging Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was created to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates local ingredients but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on countless corners, there are small establishments and carts – hidden delights that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a simple joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and demanding. The cook whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however express concern that their children are unwilling to master the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will encourage more people around the world to learn these narratives and experience the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
